DESCRIPTION of Auction Item:
You are bidding on a
SIERRA DESIGNS DIVINE LIGHTNING SINGLE-WALL 4-SEASON TENT.
MSRP: $350.00
PAID: $350.00 + TAX
ASKING: $185.00 free shipping

A thorough Gear Review of the Sierra Designs Divine Lightning at BackpackGearTest.com
This tent is in excellent, field-ready condition. SeamGrip solid as the day it was applied.
The Divine Lightning (not to be confused with the earlier "Lightning") is - maybe arguably - the lightest, one-person, full-feature, single-wall tent that you can find - if you can find it at all. It was discontinued. I purchased two of them and this one is for auction. It is unused in the field, although it was used for taking the photos below. It also has been seam sealed so you don't have to hassle with that. It also has applied to it the three SOLUTIONs listed below in the Tips/Solutions section.
DESCRIPTION:
Single-wall; 1 person + gear; hoop design; weight: 2 lb 2 oz + poles, stakes & stuff sacks ( 2 lb 12 oz actual (seam-sealed) field weight (I weighed it myself). This tent is definitely in the running for lightest tent available, anywhere !
MANUFACTURERS' SPECIFICATIONS:

fabric: ultra-lightweight, waterproof, 3-layer polyester, with moisture wicking and dispersion capability (inner layer is made of nexus), high tear strength, UV resistence, and 20% lighter than other single-wall fabrics on the market.
living space: 18.5 sq ft, interior peak of 37 inches, dimensions of 60" x 40" x 23" x 64" x 37.5" (trapezoid)
poles: 2 (the end pole is very short) Easton 7075 T9 aluminum poles (8.5 mm diameter) with natural rubber shock cord (most today use artificial rubber).
floor: tent floor is made of 70-denier 3.0 oz nylon taffeta, has taped seams, is coated and tested waterproof to 165 psi, yet is 10% lighter than other tents tested to 165 psi.
seams: all seams have a tongue-in-groove sewing construction where the two fabrics are interlocked by folds as well as a double seam.
ventilation: rear foot vent, front ceiling vent, and full mesh door provide good ventilation
other features:

full mesh door & nylon outer door
door guys out to become small awning
hydrophobic fabric instead of webbing at guy points will not wick water to the tent interior
comes with tube of SeamGrip (for sealing seams), lightweight stuff sacks for tent, poles, and stakes, cord for door and tent guy-out, and a bunch of aluminum tent stakes.

Oh yeah, the cost: US $ 350.00

THIS IS THE ACTUAL TENT UP FOR AUCTION:

TIPS / SOLUTIONS:

TIP: This tent will work best if your sleeping bag zips on the left side, because it's on the left side that you will (1) place your gear and (2) get in and out of the tent.

You will, immediately, encounter frustration when inserting the main pole into its pockets. The two pockets where the pole ends are placed are poorly designed. Its impossible to get the pole in place unless the tent is staked front and back and fairly taut. Here's an analogy that explains the problem: if you had a coin purse with a sewn bottom and unsewn, open sides, your coins would always fall out. That's it. The "pocket" for the pole ends is a piece of "slippery", twisted rubber that makes it extremely difficult to seat the pole. If you're lucky enough to get the pole in the "pocket", it most likely will slip out. Okay, the SOLUTION. I used my trusty expedition sewing kit to take the twist out of the "pocket" and sew a few strategically placed stitches to create a stable, open pocket. This repair job created a pocket--on each side of the tent--sufficient enough to insert and secure the pole without even staking the tent first. That's the first pole problem/solution.
The second problem is the way-overkill-"gets-in-the-way" velcro tabs that secure the pole in place. There are velcro tabs--two on top, two on each side, and one next to each pole pocket, a total of eight. They are cumbersome, inconvenient, and impractical. I won't describe their design, but you'll understand when you see for yourself. The SOLUTION was to cut off the slender velcro extension piece of each and every tab (except) the one next to the pole pocket on each side. This cutting (1) simplified use of the tabs and (2) reduced overall weight of the tent. The cutting removed 2 7/8" of tab extension that produces a "double wrap" that might be useful on Mt Washington in 150 mile an hour winds, but otherwise is way overkill. Removal of the excess will not affect the ability of the tabs to hold the pole in place under "normal" high-wind conditions. On the other hand, if you plan on using this tent in the Himalayas, and don't mind spending an extra 15 minutes securing the pole, then maybe you shouldn't trim back the tabs.

TIP: In addition to the loop sewn on the end of the door which allows the door to be guyed out as an awning, there is also a loop in the center of the door. I use this loop to increase tent ventilation. It is useful in all weather conditions. To the loop I attach a 24" long elastic cord which has capacity to stretch out to 48" in length. I then stretch it out about 42" and attach to a titanium stake--one of the three that I carry. This does two things (1) creates a permanent 8" opening for air and (2) as you unzip the tent door, the elastic under tension automatically pulls the door material out of your way for easier tent entry. Important note--don't overextend the elastic cord--you want plenty of play in it to allow for high winds which might otherwise damage the tent material.

TIP: In order to ensure good ventilation, put a log section or large rock under the tent tail. This lifts up the tail and allows more air to enter the rear vent--especially useful in the Winter when snow & ice can weight down the tail and, thus, block or reduce air flow into the tent. This technique also works for other tunnel-type, single-wall tents (e.g., Garuda Jalan Jalan, Stephensons' Warmilite).

The tent comes with double zippers on the outer nylon door and inner mesh door. Each zipper has an inner and outer pull-cord--all identical. TIP: (1) remove all (blue) inner pull cords and replace with red pull cords and (2) tie an extra knot--right next to the zipper--on all inner (red) pull cords and all blue (outer) pull cords. You'll be glad you did. Otherwise, I guarantee that you'll be fumbling with the cords on two accounts--(1) you won't be able to distinguish the inner ones from the outer ones--they all just kind of hang there together and (2) they are hard to grab hold of with only one knot at the bottom of the cord, by tying the extra knot close to the zipper, it stablizes the pull-cord and makes it easier to grasp.

TIP: Remove the large cloth Sierra Designs advertising patch on the outer door. It adds useless weight as well as absorbs water which adds even more weight. SOLUTION Carefully cut the stitching on the patch, from the outside of the tent (that way you won't accidently cut the thin nylon tent material from the inside of the tent). Do this before you seam seal the tent. When seam sealing, put a thin layer in & on the needle holes where the patch was attached, in order to plug them.

Again, all sales are final - no returns - so if you have questions, please let me know before you bid. Thanks.

Thank You !